*  You will need to acquire both male and female Betta fish.

*  You should setup your breeding tank. Make sure your tank is clean. Washing it with very hot water is a good precaution; do not use soap to clean your tank. Add 5-6 inches of water to your tank; add your sponge filter and finally your heater. Set the heater between 80-82 degrees. Add the recommended dose of an aquarium bacteria starter and water conditioner. Turn on your sponge filter for now.

* use dried Indian almond leaves
* or use dried banana leaves

*  After a week you are ready to introduce your fish. Turn off your sponge filter at this point.
Add your male Betta fish in the main tank area first. Give him a minute to look around and explore his new surroundings. Then add
your female Betta into the divided part of the tank or into your hurricane glass. The female and the male MUST BE SEPARATED

*  Now you will need to judge if your Bettas are ready to breed. The male Betta should be flaring his fins out around the female and building a bubble nest

most likely under your half cup. The female will develop vertical bars on her body, this is difficult to see on lighter colored fish. The female Betta should 
be released at this time, normally 24-48 hours after initial introduction into the tank. It is best to release the female just before "lights out" in the tank. 

*  Once the breeding procedure is over female betta  is removed from the tank.

*  When both parties are ready to breed the female Betta will position herself under the nest and the male Betta will wrap his body around the female. The fish will appear paralyzed for a short period of time. This embrace will be repeated several times until the female Betta has expelled all her eggs
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*  This process again can be as much as 1 to 2 days. If the fish have not spawned in this amount of time you may want to remove the female and try another time. During this time you should attempt to not bother the fish as much as possible. You should not feed the fish while they are both in the tank together either.

*  Your male Betta will now tend to the eggs on his own for the next 24-36 hours, catching them and placing them back in the nest as they fall out. 

*  After around 4 days the baby Betta fry will become free swimming and your male will be struggling to keep them all near the nest. The male should be removed at this time.

*  It is time to start feed your Betta fry. Microworms is good for frys.
2-3 drops should be good. If you watch closely you will see your fry eating the Mircoworms,The baby fry should be feed every 4-6 hours, a very demanding schedule. If you still see Microworms on the bottom of the tank when you go for your next feeding skip it.
feeding process for 3-4 weeks.

* or even EARTH WORMS

Food Supplements For Betta Fish

All Bettas love live food

However, feeding your Betta pet freeze dried food is much more convenient and cost-effective.
Pet stores sell specialty foods and supplements for Bettas. Try mixing your pet Bettas foods and supplement them with alternatives.
Don't just feed them the same food over and over again. They will require alternatives to supplement and make-up their daily staple food. You should always try and supplement their mealtime with freeze-dried mosquito larvae (e.g. known as "bloodworms") or natural brine shrimp.

Betta Fish Live Food
"Mosquito larvae" is considered the Bettas natural and very digestable food. Also, "red mosquito larvae" known as "bloodworms."
Bettas just love to feed on live "brown worms" and Bettas go wild on bloodworms. However, these live foods are really notorious for carrying disease and bacteria. This also applys to many other types of live foods.

If you wish to feed your Betta pet live worms, be certain to wash the worms in clean water and thoroughly. You should never give your Betta pet worms taken from your garden or worms you have caught in the wild because you are taking a big risk as these worms almost always carry harmful pesticides.

Side point: Inexpensive Brine shrimp is also a favorite food of Bettas. You can feed Brine shrimp to your Betta as an occasional treat but keep in mind **ONLY** feed it in moderation.
You can feed your Betta pet freeze dried brine shrimp or you you so desire you can hatch them yourself from accumulated eggs.

Betta Fish Frozen food
For Bettas frozen food is a safer bet than say live food, as there's less likelihood of catching disease and even fin rot. But its still not as easy and friendly to use as freeze-dried.

More Food Tips
Most Bettas can go a day or two without eating anything at all. So, you shouldn't worry about leaving your Betta pet for the weekend. But if you intend to be away for a much longer period, then be sure to have a friend or relative stop by and feed your Betta pet.
A good alternative is to purchase a time-release fish food block (and/or an automatic fish feeder) from your local pet store. If you decide to go this route then make sure that the Betta'se water is clean and ok.

If you are intending to be away for several days and wish to use a slow release food block it's probably a good idea to replace all of the water with fresh water.
If your tank is much smaller than say 5 gallons you should consider cleaning it before you plan your weekend away. As we've mentioned before it's also a good idea to clean your tank or bowl at least once every week.

Side point: It's good practice to allow your Betta to fast by skipping a day of feeding say once every week.
Because it will allow your Betta fish's digestive tract sufficient time to recover and clean itself out on the inside.

NOTE: Bettas tend to stop feeding on dried or frozen food once their satisfied and full. However, they'll continue to gorge themselves as long as there's live food in their aquarium. So, *DON'T* overfeed your Bettas with live food or they will quite literally eat themselves untill they actually die.
If you notice that your Betta fish has developed a paunchy look and/or a swollen belly, this is an indicator that you're overfeeding your pet Betta. But if your pet Betta appears somewhat gaunt or thin in appearance it may have a serious infection or even require more wholesome food supplements.


It may sometimes be necessary to kill fish which are suffering as a result of an incurable disease or from a serious injury.

The decision whether to put a fish out of its misery or keep it alive in the hope that it may recover is often a difficult one to make. In some cases it may be worth seeking expert opinion by taking the fish to a reputable aquarium store or veterinary surgeon - however the additional STRESS involved in disturbing and transporting the fish may itself be unkind, or even the final straw as regards to possible survival.

Safe Disposal of Carcasses

The aquarist should take responsibility for the safe and hygenic disposal of fish carcasses. The dead fish should first be wrapped in newspaper or absorbent tissue and then placed in a lead-proof plastic bag for domestic disposal. Alternatively, it can be burned, or buried in the garden. Never feed diseased dead (or live) fish to other fish as certain pathogens can be transmitted by this route. Similarly, do not flush dead fish down the lavatory as this could conceivably result in the infection of native fish with exotic pathogens.



Symptoms: Very small white speckles on fish. Resembles a fine powder.

Treatment: There are many commercially available products to cure Velvet. Among them are Maracide by Mardel Laboratories and Super Velvet by Aquatronics.
Information: Velvet, or Oodinium, is a very common disease which resembles Ich. The white pustules are much finer and are located mainly on the body. It is a little easier to cure than Ich, since the life cycle is not so rapid. It commonly follows chilling or stress caused by transportation or poor water quality.
The Sea Almond tree produces a substance in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. The dried leaves are ideal for reducing losses due to bacterial disease, and keeping sensitive species.

Add one leaf per 10-15 gallons of water for all sensitive fishes such as baby discus, dwarf cichlids, rare bettas and all black water tetras, rasboras and catfishes.

You will be amazed at the results and improved vitality and breeding frequency in your fish. The leaves have been a long kept secret in Asia where they are used by many breeders and wholesalers.



SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies with organism

COMMON NAME(S): pop-eye

SYMPTOMS: One or both eyes may protrude from their sockets.

ORGANISM: bacterial/parasitic infection, poor water quality, gas supersaturation.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality, and make sure pumps are not sucking in air on the suction side.


SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species

COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus

SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body,
usually around open wounds.

ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.




SCIENTIFIC NAME: Flexibacter spp.

COMMON NAME(S): mouth "fungus"

SYMPTOMS: Off-white marks around the mouth. As the infection spreads, white cottony tufts may appear in the mouth region, along with red ulcers on the body and frayed fins. Fish may "shimmy" and go off feed.

ORGANISM: bacterial infection, poor water quality

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality.

* ICK:

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

COMMON NAME(S): ick, white spot disease

SYMPTOMS: Large white spots on the fins and body of the infected fish.

ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: .15 ppm malachite green. 3 treatments, two days apart.



COMMON NAME(S): Anchor Worm

SYMPTOMS: "Worm" is seen on the body of the fish. Usually it is a female that is seen, with her two egg sacs on the rear of the parasite.

ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacean

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Remove parasite with tweezers, and paint the wound with tincture of iodine. In ponds, DYLOX, at a dose of .75ppm repeated every two days for three treatments, is advised. 




COMMON NAME(S): Fish louse

SYMPTOMS: The flat, somewhat rounded parasites can be seen crawling over the skin of the infected fish.

ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacea

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Dylox at a dose of .75 ppm. This dose is repeated three times, three days apart.

OTHER TREATMENT ALTERNATIVE: copper sulphate @ .20 ppm until parasites have gone.

ON USING COPPER: For several diseases listed , copper is mentioned as the treatment of choice (TOC) or as an alternate treatment. When speaking of copper, I am referring to citrated copper (ex: Sea Cure). At NO time should you be using heavily bonded or chelated coppers, as they are NOT as effective against the disease, and you can not measure the amount of copper in your system. Heavily bonded coppers are also much more difficult to remove from your system once the treatment is finished. In order for copper to be effective against a given disease, it must be in the ionic form, and heavily bonded coppers do not meet this parameter. The use of copper also suppresses the immune system for a time, so be aware of any bacterial infections that may set in. Feeding Tetra medicated food for bacterial problems is a good idea during copper treatment. Be careful when dosing copper in freshwater aquaria as the low pH levels usually found in freshwater aquaria make the copper extreamly toxic. Once treatment is finished, remove the copper from th!
e system by doing water changes and adding PolyFilters to the filter system. If you are treating in a hospital tank, allow the fish to recouperate from the treatment for two days before adding it to your display tank. Also remember to remove any chemical filtrants before using ANY medication. All treatments herein assume that the fishes will be treated in a hospital tank. Certain medications (antibiotics, methylene blue) will disrupt biological filtration. If you must treat in your display tank, keep a close watch out for a rise in ammonia.

ON METHYLENE BLUE: Some of the treatments require the addition of 2 ppm methylene blue. This is done in cases where gill damage may be present, as methylene blue acts as an oxygen carrier, easing the stress on the fish.



SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies with organism


SYMPTOMS: Swollen belly, usually with scales protruding at a 90 degree angle. Redding of vent area, and long, pale feces.

ORGANISM: Bacterial, viral infections or nutritional disorder.

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: No effective treatment. Remove affected fish to quarantine tank and give the best possible food and water quality. If fish does not improve, euthanasia may be in order.


SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species

COMMON NAME(S): eye fungus

SYMPTOMS: Eyes may appear to have a white coating.

ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.



SCIENTIFIC NAME: Posthodiplostomum sp.

COMMON NAME(S): Black spot disease

SYMPTOMS: Small black spots present on body.

ORGANISM: Digenetic fluke

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Will usually go away on its own, as the complex life cycle of the fluke can not be completed in an aquarium. Otherwise, a five minute freshwater bath followed by formalin @ 75 ppm for one hour. Formalin is dangerous to use, so treat ONLY is a hospital tank, and wear gloves and goggles when handling.


SCIENTIFIC NAME: Chilodonella sp.


SYMPTOMS: Fish has a grey-white film of excess mucus covering its body. Gills may be swollen.

ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan

RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Treat with .15 ppm malachite green and .50 ppm formalin. Dosage is given three times, two days apart. 2 ppm methylene blue should be added to the treatment if respiratory distress is evident. THIS IS A VERY CONTAGIOUS DISEASE, SO BE CAREFUL NOT TO SPREAD IT BY USING CONTAMINATED NETS AND HANDS IN OTHER AQUARIA.
Keep temp. at 75 dF. 

Characteristics Of Betta Fish Family

Characteristics Of Betta Fish Family

Round small tail, small flowing fins, goldish in color, banded body, oftentimes displays greenish splots.

Also with a round tail and small flowing fins, green colored border around anal and Bettas dorsal fins, its body is a mixture of gold, pink and a whiteish color. It also has green pectoral fins.

Also with a round tail and shorter flowing fins. The female is usually orangeish in color with darker spots that the male. The male is brighter and more orangeish than the female with lighter spots. The males light spots are usually a greenishish blue in color.

Rounder tail and with much larger flowing fins. Its body is usually a bright greenish color with black lines something similar to a spider's web. Its pectoral fins are usually a medium redd in color.

Rounded sometimes with a shorter tail along with much shorter fins. The female can be seen to have a pinkish and even orange colored body that usually displays dark blotches and spots. The male is almost always an orange color along with bright green body spots and sometimes displays an odd shape line or stripe.

Again another BETTA with arounder tail and smallish type fins. Every now and then you will see one with a somewhat pointed tail. Mouthbrooders can vary a lot in color formation.

Painted's also diplay a rounder tail along with smaller flowing fins that have a green border. They can be goldish looking in color and usually displays three prominate stripes that run horizontally down the full length of its body.

What Betta Fish Like To Eat

What are the foods that Bettas... love the most?
We'll list them below but first... one thing that you should keep in mind is: "It's best if Bettas eat a variety of foods":.
Foods which we'll call &quit:Prepared foods". Things like freeze dried foods, frozen foods and even live foods.
However one thing that all Betta fish owners quickly learn is... Bettas are finicky eaters.
It's like the old saying: "One Mans Food Is Another Mans Poison!". This holds true when it comes to Bettas as well.
Food that you give to one betta will be consumed as quickly as you place it in the tank. However, give the same food to another Betta and he'll spit it out just as quickly! So, what type of foods do pretty much all Bettas love? Let's find out below...
Some known favorites of Bettas are:
Freeze Dried Bloodworms. This food is liked by almost all Bettas. And it has a lesser chance of being infected by parasites say than freeze dried grub.
Here's another favorite... live baby guppy fish. Bettas oftentimes go wild when you feed them guppies!
Then there's specialty foods just for Betta fish. One excellent food you can easily find at your local pet store is: "Hikari Betta Bio Gold" Bettas also love the stuff! And its great nutrition for them too!
Frozen food which includes Bloodworms and "Brine Shrimp" is another favorite of almost all Bettas. You can use a little dixie cup to thaw-out the frozen food but... make sure that you usie fresh tank water which is the best. How many Bloodworms should you feed you pet Betta? Usually about three to four per feeding is about the right amount.
"Mosquito larvae" is another food which Bettas seem to love. They'll even thrash about trying to devour all that they can!
But the bottom line is (when it comes to feeding)... finding out just what your pet Betta loves the most, and serving it up as the main meal. Luckily feeding bettas comes down to offering them what they'll eat.
So, you can see that Bettas love lots of different types of foods, and what one Betta will eat another Betta may turn his nose up at! Try a few different styles of fish food, and it won't take you very long to work out which food is the favorite of your pet Betta.
Just remember that a Bettas stomach is tiny and usually no more than the size of its eye. In some instances, it holds true that a Bettas eyes are bigger than their stomach!
So, you should keep this in mind at feeding time, and try and limit the amount of food that you feed you pet Betta.