Asian arowana ...parts
The Asian arowanas are listed as endangered by the 2006 IUCN Red List, with the most recent evaluation taking place in 1996. International trade in these fishes is controlled under the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES), under which it was placed on Appendix I, the most restrictive category, in 1975. S. formosus is one of only eight fish species listed on Appendix I.There are a number of registered CITES breeders in Asia and the specimens they produce can be imported into several nations. Other nations restrict or prohibit possession of Asian arowanas; for example, the United States has listed this species under the Endangered Species Act, and therefore it cannot be possessed in that country without a permit.
Skin fungus
COMMON DISEASES IN FRESH WATER FISH
* SKIN FUNGUS:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus
SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body,
usually around open wounds.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus
SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body,
usually around open wounds.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.
OTHER TREATMENT ALTERNATIVE: SEE OUR MONTHLY SPECIALS….
CERTAIN MEDICATIONS (ANTIBIOTICS, METHYLENE BLUE) WILL DISRUPT BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION ETC.
CERTAIN MEDICATIONS (ANTIBIOTICS, METHYLENE BLUE) WILL DISRUPT BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION ETC.
cruel methods to kill a fish
It is considered cruel to kill a fish by the following methods:
1.flushing them alive down the toilet
2.removing them from the water until death occurs
3.plunging them into boiling water
4.slowly chilling them (with or without water) (note: this method is still commonly advocated in the aquarium literature, but is now considered to cause the fish unnecessary pain.)
5.breaking the neck, without subsequent destruction of the brain
6.mixing caster oil + in water -> pain less death
Betta breeding
* You will need to acquire both male and female Betta fish.
tips
* use dried Indian almond leaves
* or use dried banana leaves
* After a week you are ready to introduce your fish. Turn off your sponge filter at this point.
Add your male Betta fish in the main tank area first. Give him a minute to look around and explore his new surroundings. Then add
your female Betta into the divided part of the tank or into your hurricane glass. The female and the male MUST BE SEPARATED
* When both parties are ready to breed the female Betta will position herself under the nest and the male Betta will wrap his body around the female. The fish will appear paralyzed for a short period of time. This embrace will be repeated several times until the female Betta has expelled all her eggs
* This process again can be as much as 1 to 2 days. If the fish have not spawned in this amount of time you may want to remove the female and try another time. During this time you should attempt to not bother the fish as much as possible. You should not feed the fish while they are both in the tank together either.
* After around 4 days the baby Betta fry will become free swimming and your male will be struggling to keep them all near the nest. The male should be removed at this time.
* or even EARTH WORMS
* You should setup your breeding tank. Make sure your tank is clean. Washing it with very hot water is a good precaution; do not use soap to clean your tank. Add 5-6 inches of water to your tank; add your sponge filter and finally your heater. Set the heater between 80-82 degrees. Add the recommended dose of an aquarium bacteria starter and water conditioner. Turn on your sponge filter for now.
tips
* use dried Indian almond leaves
* or use dried banana leaves
Add your male Betta fish in the main tank area first. Give him a minute to look around and explore his new surroundings. Then add
your female Betta into the divided part of the tank or into your hurricane glass. The female and the male MUST BE SEPARATED
* Now you will need to judge if your Bettas are ready to breed. The male Betta should be flaring his fins out around the female and building a bubble nest,
most likely under your half cup. The female will develop vertical bars on her body, this is difficult to see on lighter colored fish. The female Betta should
be released at this time, normally 24-48 hours after initial introduction into the tank. It is best to release the female just before "lights out" in the tank.
* Once the breeding procedure is over female betta is removed from the tank.
* This process again can be as much as 1 to 2 days. If the fish have not spawned in this amount of time you may want to remove the female and try another time. During this time you should attempt to not bother the fish as much as possible. You should not feed the fish while they are both in the tank together either.
* Your male Betta will now tend to the eggs on his own for the next 24-36 hours, catching them and placing them back in the nest as they fall out.
* It is time to start feed your Betta fry. Microworms is good for frys.
2-3 drops should be good. If you watch closely you will see your fry eating the Mircoworms,The baby fry should be feed every 4-6 hours, a very demanding schedule. If you still see Microworms on the bottom of the tank when you go for your next feeding skip it.
feeding process for 3-4 weeks.
ALTERNATIVE
* EGG YOLK
* BRINE SHRIMPS
* FEW DROPS OF MILK
* INFUSORIA
* SMALL PROTOZOANS
* LIQUID FRY FOOD
* MOSQUITO LARVA
* BLACK WORM & VINEGAR EEL
BREEDING BETTA FISH
* You will need to acquire both male and female Betta fish.
tips
* use dried Indian almond leaves
* or use dried banana leaves
* After a week you are ready to introduce your fish. Turn off your sponge filter at this point.
Add your male Betta fish in the main tank area first. Give him a minute to look around and explore his new surroundings. Then add
your female Betta into the divided part of the tank or into your hurricane glass. The female and the male MUST BE SEPARATED
* When both parties are ready to breed the female Betta will position herself under the nest and the male Betta will wrap his body around the female. The fish will appear paralyzed for a short period of time. This embrace will be repeated several times until the female Betta has expelled all her eggs
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* This process again can be as much as 1 to 2 days. If the fish have not spawned in this amount of time you may want to remove the female and try another time. During this time you should attempt to not bother the fish as much as possible. You should not feed the fish while they are both in the tank together either.
* After around 4 days the baby Betta fry will become free swimming and your male will be struggling to keep them all near the nest. The male should be removed at this time.
* or even EARTH WORMS* You should setup your breeding tank. Make sure your tank is clean. Washing it with very hot water is a good precaution; do not use soap to clean your tank. Add 5-6 inches of water to your tank; add your sponge filter and finally your heater. Set the heater between 80-82 degrees. Add the recommended dose of an aquarium bacteria starter and water conditioner. Turn on your sponge filter for now.
tips
* use dried Indian almond leaves
* or use dried banana leaves
Add your male Betta fish in the main tank area first. Give him a minute to look around and explore his new surroundings. Then add
your female Betta into the divided part of the tank or into your hurricane glass. The female and the male MUST BE SEPARATED
* Now you will need to judge if your Bettas are ready to breed. The male Betta should be flaring his fins out around the female and building a bubble nest,
most likely under your half cup. The female will develop vertical bars on her body, this is difficult to see on lighter colored fish. The female Betta should
be released at this time, normally 24-48 hours after initial introduction into the tank. It is best to release the female just before "lights out" in the tank.
* Once the breeding procedure is over female betta is removed from the tank.
* This process again can be as much as 1 to 2 days. If the fish have not spawned in this amount of time you may want to remove the female and try another time. During this time you should attempt to not bother the fish as much as possible. You should not feed the fish while they are both in the tank together either.
* Your male Betta will now tend to the eggs on his own for the next 24-36 hours, catching them and placing them back in the nest as they fall out.
* It is time to start feed your Betta fry. Microworms is good for frys.
2-3 drops should be good. If you watch closely you will see your fry eating the Mircoworms,The baby fry should be feed every 4-6 hours, a very demanding schedule. If you still see Microworms on the bottom of the tank when you go for your next feeding skip it.
feeding process for 3-4 weeks.
ALTERNATIVE
* EGG YOLK
* BRINE SHRIMPS
* FEW DROPS OF MILK
* INFUSORIA
* SMALL PROTOZOANS
* LIQUID FRY FOOD
* MOSQUITO LARVA
* BLACK WORM & VINEGAR EEL
Food Supplements For Betta Fish
All Bettas love live food
However, feeding your Betta pet freeze dried food is much more convenient and cost-effective.
Pet stores sell specialty foods and supplements for Bettas. Try mixing your pet Bettas foods and supplement them with alternatives.
Don't just feed them the same food over and over again. They will require alternatives to supplement and make-up their daily staple food. You should always try and supplement their mealtime with freeze-dried mosquito larvae (e.g. known as "bloodworms") or natural brine shrimp.
Betta Fish Live Food
"Mosquito larvae" is considered the Bettas natural and very digestable food. Also, "red mosquito larvae" known as "bloodworms."
Bettas just love to feed on live "brown worms" and Bettas go wild on bloodworms. However, these live foods are really notorious for carrying disease and bacteria. This also applys to many other types of live foods.
If you wish to feed your Betta pet live worms, be certain to wash the worms in clean water and thoroughly. You should never give your Betta pet worms taken from your garden or worms you have caught in the wild because you are taking a big risk as these worms almost always carry harmful pesticides.
Side point: Inexpensive Brine shrimp is also a favorite food of Bettas. You can feed Brine shrimp to your Betta as an occasional treat but keep in mind **ONLY** feed it in moderation.
You can feed your Betta pet freeze dried brine shrimp or you you so desire you can hatch them yourself from accumulated eggs.
Betta Fish Frozen food
For Bettas frozen food is a safer bet than say live food, as there's less likelihood of catching disease and even fin rot. But its still not as easy and friendly to use as freeze-dried.
More Food Tips
Most Bettas can go a day or two without eating anything at all. So, you shouldn't worry about leaving your Betta pet for the weekend. But if you intend to be away for a much longer period, then be sure to have a friend or relative stop by and feed your Betta pet.
A good alternative is to purchase a time-release fish food block (and/or an automatic fish feeder) from your local pet store. If you decide to go this route then make sure that the Betta'se water is clean and ok.
If you are intending to be away for several days and wish to use a slow release food block it's probably a good idea to replace all of the water with fresh water.
If your tank is much smaller than say 5 gallons you should consider cleaning it before you plan your weekend away. As we've mentioned before it's also a good idea to clean your tank or bowl at least once every week.
Side point: It's good practice to allow your Betta to fast by skipping a day of feeding say once every week.
Why?
Because it will allow your Betta fish's digestive tract sufficient time to recover and clean itself out on the inside.
NOTE: Bettas tend to stop feeding on dried or frozen food once their satisfied and full. However, they'll continue to gorge themselves as long as there's live food in their aquarium. So, *DON'T* overfeed your Bettas with live food or they will quite literally eat themselves untill they actually die.
If you notice that your Betta fish has developed a paunchy look and/or a swollen belly, this is an indicator that you're overfeeding your pet Betta. But if your pet Betta appears somewhat gaunt or thin in appearance it may have a serious infection or even require more wholesome food supplements.
COMMON DISEASES IN FRESH WATER FISH
* EUTHANASIA:
It may sometimes be necessary to kill fish which are suffering as a result of an incurable disease or from a serious injury.
The decision whether to put a fish out of its misery or keep it alive in the hope that it may recover is often a difficult one to make. In some cases it may be worth seeking expert opinion by taking the fish to a reputable aquarium store or veterinary surgeon - however the additional STRESS involved in disturbing and transporting the fish may itself be unkind, or even the final straw as regards to possible survival.
Safe Disposal of Carcasses
The aquarist should take responsibility for the safe and hygenic disposal of fish carcasses. The dead fish should first be wrapped in newspaper or absorbent tissue and then placed in a lead-proof plastic bag for domestic disposal. Alternatively, it can be burned, or buried in the garden. Never feed diseased dead (or live) fish to other fish as certain pathogens can be transmitted by this route. Similarly, do not flush dead fish down the lavatory as this could conceivably result in the infection of native fish with exotic pathogens.
It may sometimes be necessary to kill fish which are suffering as a result of an incurable disease or from a serious injury.
The decision whether to put a fish out of its misery or keep it alive in the hope that it may recover is often a difficult one to make. In some cases it may be worth seeking expert opinion by taking the fish to a reputable aquarium store or veterinary surgeon - however the additional STRESS involved in disturbing and transporting the fish may itself be unkind, or even the final straw as regards to possible survival.
Safe Disposal of Carcasses
The aquarist should take responsibility for the safe and hygenic disposal of fish carcasses. The dead fish should first be wrapped in newspaper or absorbent tissue and then placed in a lead-proof plastic bag for domestic disposal. Alternatively, it can be burned, or buried in the garden. Never feed diseased dead (or live) fish to other fish as certain pathogens can be transmitted by this route. Similarly, do not flush dead fish down the lavatory as this could conceivably result in the infection of native fish with exotic pathogens.
COMMON DISEASES IN FRESH WATER FISH
Symptoms: Very small white speckles on fish. Resembles a fine powder.
Treatment: There are many commercially available products to cure Velvet. Among them are Maracide by Mardel Laboratories and Super Velvet by Aquatronics.
Information: Velvet, or Oodinium, is a very common disease which resembles Ich. The white pustules are much finer and are located mainly on the body. It is a little easier to cure than Ich, since the life cycle is not so rapid. It commonly follows chilling or stress caused by transportation or poor water quality.
Treatment: There are many commercially available products to cure Velvet. Among them are Maracide by Mardel Laboratories and Super Velvet by Aquatronics.
Information: Velvet, or Oodinium, is a very common disease which resembles Ich. The white pustules are much finer and are located mainly on the body. It is a little easier to cure than Ich, since the life cycle is not so rapid. It commonly follows chilling or stress caused by transportation or poor water quality.
INDIAN ALMOND LEAF - AN ASIAN SECRET - IT WORKS LIKE MAGIC !
The Sea Almond tree produces a substance in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. The dried leaves are ideal for reducing losses due to bacterial disease, and keeping sensitive species.
Add one leaf per 10-15 gallons of water for all sensitive fishes such as baby discus, dwarf cichlids, rare bettas and all black water tetras, rasboras and catfishes.
You will be amazed at the results and improved vitality and breeding frequency in your fish. The leaves have been a long kept secret in Asia where they are used by many breeders and wholesalers.
The Sea Almond tree produces a substance in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. The dried leaves are ideal for reducing losses due to bacterial disease, and keeping sensitive species.
Add one leaf per 10-15 gallons of water for all sensitive fishes such as baby discus, dwarf cichlids, rare bettas and all black water tetras, rasboras and catfishes.
You will be amazed at the results and improved vitality and breeding frequency in your fish. The leaves have been a long kept secret in Asia where they are used by many breeders and wholesalers.
COMMON DISEASES IN FRESH WATER FISH
* POP EYE:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies with organism
COMMON NAME(S): pop-eye
SYMPTOMS: One or both eyes may protrude from their sockets.
ORGANISM: bacterial/parasitic infection, poor water quality, gas supersaturation.
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality, and make sure pumps are not sucking in air on the suction side.
* SKIN FUNGUS:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus
SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body,
usually around open wounds.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: varies according to fungal species
COMMON NAME(S): skin fungus, body fungus
SYMPTOMS: Cottony tufts present on fins or body,
usually around open wounds.
ORGANISM: saprophitic fungi
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: A mixture of Potassium dichromate and Silver Nitrate works the best. This is available through Aquatronics as Eye-Fungex. First, one is painted on the infected area, then the other. Follow directions on package.
OTHER TREATMENT ALTERNATIVE: SEE OUR MONTHLY SPECIALS….
CERTAIN MEDICATIONS (ANTIBIOTICS, METHYLENE BLUE) WILL DISRUPT BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION ETC.
CERTAIN MEDICATIONS (ANTIBIOTICS, METHYLENE BLUE) WILL DISRUPT BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION ETC.
COMMON DISEASES IN FRESH WATER FISH
* FLEXIBACTER:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Flexibacter spp.
COMMON NAME(S): mouth "fungus"
SYMPTOMS: Off-white marks around the mouth. As the infection spreads, white cottony tufts may appear in the mouth region, along with red ulcers on the body and frayed fins. Fish may "shimmy" and go off feed.
ORGANISM: bacterial infection, poor water quality
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Neomycin sulphate @ 250 mg/gallon. This antibiotic is affective against a wide range of gram+ and gram - bacteria. Improve water quality.
* ICK:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
COMMON NAME(S): ick, white spot disease
SYMPTOMS: Large white spots on the fins and body of the infected fish.
ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: .15 ppm malachite green. 3 treatments, two days apart.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis
COMMON NAME(S): ick, white spot disease
SYMPTOMS: Large white spots on the fins and body of the infected fish.
ORGANISM: Ciliated protozoan
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: .15 ppm malachite green. 3 treatments, two days apart.
* LERNIA:
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lernia sp.
COMMON NAME(S): Anchor Worm
SYMPTOMS: "Worm" is seen on the body of the fish. Usually it is a female that is seen, with her two egg sacs on the rear of the parasite.
ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacean
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Remove parasite with tweezers, and paint the wound with tincture of iodine. In ponds, DYLOX, at a dose of .75ppm repeated every two days for three treatments, is advised.
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lernia sp.
COMMON NAME(S): Anchor Worm
SYMPTOMS: "Worm" is seen on the body of the fish. Usually it is a female that is seen, with her two egg sacs on the rear of the parasite.
ORGANISM: Parasitic crustacean
RECOMMENDED TREATMENT: Remove parasite with tweezers, and paint the wound with tincture of iodine. In ponds, DYLOX, at a dose of .75ppm repeated every two days for three treatments, is advised.
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